Helpful Information You May Not Already Know:
Poison List:
Foods.....
Alcoholic Beverages: These can cause intoxication, coma, and death.
Baby Food Containing Onion Powder: Onions are toxic to cats. If you feed your cat baby food, read the label and make sure it does not contain onion powder.
Bones From Fish, Poultry, Or Other Meat Sources: These can cause obstruction or laceration of the digestive system.
Caffeine (From Chocolate, Coffee, Or Tea): Caffeine can affect the heart and nervous system and can be toxic.
Chocolate: In addition to caffeine, chocolate contains theobromine, a compound that is toxic to pets. Theobromine is also present in cocoa bean mulch.
Grapes and Raisins: Contain an unknown toxin which damages the kidneys.
Large Amounts Of Liver: Can cause Vitamin A toxicity, which affects muscles and bones.
Macadamia Nuts: Contain an unknown toxin which can affect the digestive and nervous systems.
Mushrooms: Some contain toxins that affect multiple systems in the body, cause shock, and result in death.
Onions And Garlic (Raw, Cooked, Or Powder): These contain sulfoxides and disulfides, which can damage red blood cells and cause anemia. Cats are more susceptible than dogs.
Potato, Rhubarb And Tomato Leaves And Stems, Green Tomatoes Or Potatoes: These foods are members of the family of plants which includes the Deadly Nightshade, and contain the poisonous alkaloid Glycoalkaloid Solanine, which can cause violent lower gastrointestinal problems.
Raw Eggs: Contain the enzyme avidin, which decreases the absorption of biotin (a B vitamin). This can lead to skin and hair coat problems. Raw eggs may contain Salmonella.
Raw Fish: Can result in a thiamine deficiency leading to loss of appetite, seizures, and death.
Yeast Dough: Can expand and produce gas in the digestive system, causing pain and rupture of the stomach or intestines.
String: Although it’s not a food, string and objects like tinsel, thread, dental floss and rubber bands are often swallowed by cats, requiring emergency treatment. If you see a piece of string or tinsel in your cat’s anus, don’t pull it out! You could cause serious harm to the gastrointestinal tract. Take your cat to the vet immediately.
Plants.....
Amaryllis: Vomiting and diarrhea
Azalea: Incoordination, trembling, collapse
Cactus: Punctures skin which can become infected
Caladium: Nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, shaking head, difficulty breathing
Creeping Charlies: Vomiting, diarrhea, stomach pain, cramps
Lilies: Kidney failure
Dieffenbachia: Central nervous system problems
Ivy: Vomiting, diarrhea, excitable behavior
Mistletoe: Vomiting, diarrhea, blistering in the mouth, difficulty breathing
Philodendron: Nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, shaking head, difficulty breathing
Poinsettia: Vomiting, diarrhea, blistering in the mouth, difficulty breathing
Other Items...
Ammonia:
Found in oven and window cleaners, it irritates mucous membranes — the mouth, nose, and eyes, primarily. If chlorine and ammonia mix, it can create a chemical reaction that leads to the formation of chlorine gas, hydrochloric acid, and a number of other potentially fatal chemicals. Chlorine gas is heavier than air and settles in lower-lying areas (like near floors), making feline exposure more likely.
Chlorine:
Found in bleach, toilet bowl cleaners, automatic dishwashing detergents, disinfecting wipes, all-purpose cleaners, and mildew removers. When exposed, cats may develop respiratory problems, eye and skin irritation, and, if the chlorine is ingested in enough quantity, mouth and esophageal burns.
Naphthalene:
Found in mothballs, it can lead to vomiting, diarrhea, increased drinking and urination, and seizures. Heavy exposure or accidental ingestion can be potentially life threatening.
If You Think Your Cat Has Been Poisoned
Contact your veterinarian or the ASPCA National Animal Poison Control Center at one of these numbers: 1-900-443-0000 or 1-888-426-4435
Information from http://www.catster.com/cat-health-care/plants-food-poisonous-to-cats and http://www.catster.com/lifestyle/do-chemicals-toxic-to-cats-lurk-in-your-cleaning-products
Poison List:
Foods.....
Alcoholic Beverages: These can cause intoxication, coma, and death.
Baby Food Containing Onion Powder: Onions are toxic to cats. If you feed your cat baby food, read the label and make sure it does not contain onion powder.
Bones From Fish, Poultry, Or Other Meat Sources: These can cause obstruction or laceration of the digestive system.
Caffeine (From Chocolate, Coffee, Or Tea): Caffeine can affect the heart and nervous system and can be toxic.
Chocolate: In addition to caffeine, chocolate contains theobromine, a compound that is toxic to pets. Theobromine is also present in cocoa bean mulch.
Grapes and Raisins: Contain an unknown toxin which damages the kidneys.
Large Amounts Of Liver: Can cause Vitamin A toxicity, which affects muscles and bones.
Macadamia Nuts: Contain an unknown toxin which can affect the digestive and nervous systems.
Mushrooms: Some contain toxins that affect multiple systems in the body, cause shock, and result in death.
Onions And Garlic (Raw, Cooked, Or Powder): These contain sulfoxides and disulfides, which can damage red blood cells and cause anemia. Cats are more susceptible than dogs.
Potato, Rhubarb And Tomato Leaves And Stems, Green Tomatoes Or Potatoes: These foods are members of the family of plants which includes the Deadly Nightshade, and contain the poisonous alkaloid Glycoalkaloid Solanine, which can cause violent lower gastrointestinal problems.
Raw Eggs: Contain the enzyme avidin, which decreases the absorption of biotin (a B vitamin). This can lead to skin and hair coat problems. Raw eggs may contain Salmonella.
Raw Fish: Can result in a thiamine deficiency leading to loss of appetite, seizures, and death.
Yeast Dough: Can expand and produce gas in the digestive system, causing pain and rupture of the stomach or intestines.
String: Although it’s not a food, string and objects like tinsel, thread, dental floss and rubber bands are often swallowed by cats, requiring emergency treatment. If you see a piece of string or tinsel in your cat’s anus, don’t pull it out! You could cause serious harm to the gastrointestinal tract. Take your cat to the vet immediately.
Plants.....
Amaryllis: Vomiting and diarrhea
Azalea: Incoordination, trembling, collapse
Cactus: Punctures skin which can become infected
Caladium: Nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, shaking head, difficulty breathing
Creeping Charlies: Vomiting, diarrhea, stomach pain, cramps
Lilies: Kidney failure
Dieffenbachia: Central nervous system problems
Ivy: Vomiting, diarrhea, excitable behavior
Mistletoe: Vomiting, diarrhea, blistering in the mouth, difficulty breathing
Philodendron: Nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, shaking head, difficulty breathing
Poinsettia: Vomiting, diarrhea, blistering in the mouth, difficulty breathing
Other Items...
Ammonia:
Found in oven and window cleaners, it irritates mucous membranes — the mouth, nose, and eyes, primarily. If chlorine and ammonia mix, it can create a chemical reaction that leads to the formation of chlorine gas, hydrochloric acid, and a number of other potentially fatal chemicals. Chlorine gas is heavier than air and settles in lower-lying areas (like near floors), making feline exposure more likely.
Chlorine:
Found in bleach, toilet bowl cleaners, automatic dishwashing detergents, disinfecting wipes, all-purpose cleaners, and mildew removers. When exposed, cats may develop respiratory problems, eye and skin irritation, and, if the chlorine is ingested in enough quantity, mouth and esophageal burns.
Naphthalene:
Found in mothballs, it can lead to vomiting, diarrhea, increased drinking and urination, and seizures. Heavy exposure or accidental ingestion can be potentially life threatening.
If You Think Your Cat Has Been Poisoned
Contact your veterinarian or the ASPCA National Animal Poison Control Center at one of these numbers: 1-900-443-0000 or 1-888-426-4435
Information from http://www.catster.com/cat-health-care/plants-food-poisonous-to-cats and http://www.catster.com/lifestyle/do-chemicals-toxic-to-cats-lurk-in-your-cleaning-products
Introducing Cats to Each Other: Here are some tips for making it easier and more peaceful for all involved.....
Step 1: Making a good first impression
The first impression a new cat makes when she meets your resident cat is critical. If two cats display aggression during their first meeting, this may set the mood for their future relationship. For this reason, it's best to separate your resident cat from your new cat when you first bring her home so that you can control their initial meeting.
The two cats should be able to smell and hear—but not see or touch—each other. Each cat should have her own food and water bowl, litter box, scratching post, bed, etc. Feed the cats near the door that separates them so they learn that coming together (even though they can't see each other) results in a pleasant experience.
After two to three days, switch the cats' locations so they can investigate each other's smell. This also allows the new cat to explore a different section of your home. Some behaviorists suggest rubbing the cats separately with the same towel to intermix their scents. First gently rub one cat with the towel. Then rub the other cat. After the towel carries both cats' scents, bring the towel back to the first cat and rub her with it again. After a few more days, play with each of the cats near the door. Encourage them to paw at toys under the door. Eventually the cats may play "paws" under the door with each other.
Step 2: Letting the cats see each other
After a few days, assuming that you see no signs of aggression at the door (no hissing, growling, etc.), you can introduce the cats to each other. It's good to bring the cats together when they are likely to be relatively calm, such as after a meal or strenuous play. Keep a squirt bottle handy in case the cats begin to fight. As the cats become more familiar with each other, allow them longer and longer periods of time together.
If you're bringing a new cat into a household with multiple cats, introduce each resident cat to the newcomer individually. After each of your cats has met the new cat one-on-one, you can start to allow all of the cats to mingle as a group. Your cats will be more likely to get along if they're happy in their environment. Look at the layout of your home. Make sure there are plenty of hiding spots for your cats. Some like to sit up high, on shelves and on kitty condo perches. Frightened cats, on the other hand, tend to hide under and behind things, so make sure you provide spots at floor level as well. Place food, water and litter boxes out in the open so your cats don't feel trapped when they access these resources. Make sure you have a litter box for each cat.
Read the full article at https://www.paws.org/library/cats/home-life/introducing-cat-to-cat/
SOCIALIZATION ? ? ?
If you hate cats, it is very likely that they love you! On the other hand if you adore them, they may be aloof......why?
Communication. Eye contact is everything with cats. You talk to your cat with your eyes. Someone who hates cats will generally not make eye contact and try to avoid the cat altogether. Ironically, this communicates a passive stance in cat language. It says, "I submit and am no threat to you". By contrast the cat passionate person will make immediate eye contact with a cat, and usually approach and reach to touch it. In the cats language this say "This is my territory, you submit to me". Not what they intended to say at all. Very unfriendly in cat terms ;)
If you want to make friends with a feline look and look away. Make eye contact for only a moment and long blink. This says, "Hi, I'm friendly, you can feel safe around me".
Don't try to force a cat to socialize with strangers, you will only make them more fearful. The best approach is to offer them a safe haven in the room where company will be. Let them get accustomed to the sound and smell of a stranger in their own time from their own safe spot. You will have much faster success with this approach.
For more informational reading on this subject take a look at this website:
https://www.thesprucepets.com/cat-talk-eyes-553942
Introducing Cats to Each Other: Here are some tips for making it easier and more peaceful for all involved.....
Step 1: Making a good first impression
The first impression a new cat makes when she meets your resident cat is critical. If two cats display aggression during their first meeting, this may set the mood for their future relationship. For this reason, it's best to separate your resident cat from your new cat when you first bring her home so that you can control their initial meeting.
The two cats should be able to smell and hear—but not see or touch—each other. Each cat should have her own food and water bowl, litter box, scratching post, bed, etc. Feed the cats near the door that separates them so they learn that coming together (even though they can't see each other) results in a pleasant experience.
After two to three days, switch the cats' locations so they can investigate each other's smell. This also allows the new cat to explore a different section of your home. Some behaviorists suggest rubbing the cats separately with the same towel to intermix their scents. First gently rub one cat with the towel. Then rub the other cat. After the towel carries both cats' scents, bring the towel back to the first cat and rub her with it again. After a few more days, play with each of the cats near the door. Encourage them to paw at toys under the door. Eventually the cats may play "paws" under the door with each other.
Step 2: Letting the cats see each other
After a few days, assuming that you see no signs of aggression at the door (no hissing, growling, etc.), you can introduce the cats to each other. It's good to bring the cats together when they are likely to be relatively calm, such as after a meal or strenuous play. Keep a squirt bottle handy in case the cats begin to fight. As the cats become more familiar with each other, allow them longer and longer periods of time together.
If you're bringing a new cat into a household with multiple cats, introduce each resident cat to the newcomer individually. After each of your cats has met the new cat one-on-one, you can start to allow all of the cats to mingle as a group. Your cats will be more likely to get along if they're happy in their environment. Look at the layout of your home. Make sure there are plenty of hiding spots for your cats. Some like to sit up high, on shelves and on kitty condo perches. Frightened cats, on the other hand, tend to hide under and behind things, so make sure you provide spots at floor level as well. Place food, water and litter boxes out in the open so your cats don't feel trapped when they access these resources. Make sure you have a litter box for each cat.
Read the full article at https://www.paws.org/library/cats/home-life/introducing-cat-to-cat/
SOCIALIZATION ? ? ?
If you hate cats, it is very likely that they love you! On the other hand if you adore them, they may be aloof......why?
Communication. Eye contact is everything with cats. You talk to your cat with your eyes. Someone who hates cats will generally not make eye contact and try to avoid the cat altogether. Ironically, this communicates a passive stance in cat language. It says, "I submit and am no threat to you". By contrast the cat passionate person will make immediate eye contact with a cat, and usually approach and reach to touch it. In the cats language this say "This is my territory, you submit to me". Not what they intended to say at all. Very unfriendly in cat terms ;)
If you want to make friends with a feline look and look away. Make eye contact for only a moment and long blink. This says, "Hi, I'm friendly, you can feel safe around me".
Don't try to force a cat to socialize with strangers, you will only make them more fearful. The best approach is to offer them a safe haven in the room where company will be. Let them get accustomed to the sound and smell of a stranger in their own time from their own safe spot. You will have much faster success with this approach.
For more informational reading on this subject take a look at this website:
https://www.thesprucepets.com/cat-talk-eyes-553942
It’s Playtime……
Yarn is no longer the hottest toy in town ;)
Here are some faves that you will not find at your local pet store:
Yoga Mats!! Who knew?! They are the ultimate scratching material. Roll them out and save the sofa.
Straws…..yes, plain old cheapy two cent plastic straws like come with a fountain drink. Throw a few on the floor and see if we aren’t right. Because they are light weight and easy to pick up with the teeth; they are hours of fun to bat and bite! Grrrrrrr!
Craft puff balls and pipe cleaners work on the same principle.
Nerf gun balls are the bomb! They fit nicely into that large bite but will not choke our kitty love. And they are nearly indestructible…….nearly ;)
Jingle Bells, jingle bells, jingle all the way. Stock up on these at Christmas. You will never wonder where kitty is playing.
Small stuffed animals. Like the kind you would win in one of those claw arcade games. The smaller the better. Tiny little animals are a bigger hit than you might guess. Kitty loves to pack these from one special spot to the next.
Pick up a few of these SMALL COST toys for some BIG TIME fun!!
Yarn is no longer the hottest toy in town ;)
Here are some faves that you will not find at your local pet store:
Yoga Mats!! Who knew?! They are the ultimate scratching material. Roll them out and save the sofa.
Straws…..yes, plain old cheapy two cent plastic straws like come with a fountain drink. Throw a few on the floor and see if we aren’t right. Because they are light weight and easy to pick up with the teeth; they are hours of fun to bat and bite! Grrrrrrr!
Craft puff balls and pipe cleaners work on the same principle.
Nerf gun balls are the bomb! They fit nicely into that large bite but will not choke our kitty love. And they are nearly indestructible…….nearly ;)
Jingle Bells, jingle bells, jingle all the way. Stock up on these at Christmas. You will never wonder where kitty is playing.
Small stuffed animals. Like the kind you would win in one of those claw arcade games. The smaller the better. Tiny little animals are a bigger hit than you might guess. Kitty loves to pack these from one special spot to the next.
Pick up a few of these SMALL COST toys for some BIG TIME fun!!